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Cymbidium Everglades 'Diamond Jubilee' AM/AOS Cymbidiums' need for high light and cool summer nights make them difficult, if not impossible, to successfully grow indoors or under lights. Of course, the plants may be brought indoors when in flower or when frost is likely. When summer arrives, move the plants outdoors into strong, filtered sun beneath a tree or on a screened patio. Photo by Greg Allikas/AOS
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October 2002
OCTOBER MEETING October
14 , 2002 A Novice Approach to Orchid Flasking This month, Bob Worley of Mostly Orchids will be giving us a talk on home orchid flasking including the results of a cross he has made. He'll also have great plants for sale and we'll be buying some of our raffle table plants from him. Beginner's
program (starts at 6:30 p.m.): SEEING THE LIGHT Light is the most important aspect to growing orchids in a home. Placement of plants is crucial to the success of indoor culture. East, west and south facing windows are fine, but pay close attention to the amount of light each window receives as the sun moves throughout the day and year. When direct sun is coming in, it should be diffused by a curtain or a small tree outside. However, direct sun in the early morning or late afternoon is okay. South-facing windows are great as they are generally the brightest, but direct sun should be diffused and the heat should be kept under control. Plants should be placed as close to the window as possible. Keep in mind there is considerably less light in the middle of a room. Most orchids require a certain amount of light to bloom, therefore, if your orchids are not blooming there is a good chance they are not getting enough light. Any natural sunlight that you can give the plants is extremely beneficial. However, supplementing low sunlight levels with artificial light can be easily accomplished. Grow lights are specially formulated to give light similar to the spectrum of sunlight. Many people have had success with a combination of cool and warm fluorescents or cool fluourescents and incandescent bulbs. Light intensity decrease by half at a distance of six inches away from the light bulbs. Plants requiring higher light, such as cattleyas, will need their leaf tips just two to three inches away. One of the benefits of artifical lighting is that the amount of light can be controlled by a timer and you can stretch the duration of light longer than day length. Some orchids, especially species, are sensitive to day length and won't bloom if given more than actual day light. It is best to reproduce day length or increase it slightly and change it four times a year: January-March
–– 12-14 hours Courtesy "Growing Orchids in the Home," Santa Barbara Orchid Estate (www.sborchid.com). FROM THE PRESIDENT A big thank you to all the volunteers who made our fall show a success. I would especially like to thank Robin Kemph for all the hard work and organization that she put in to this show to make it run as smoothly as it did. It looks like we will see some profit from this show--somewhere around $1,500. It takes a lot more than $1,500 to run the society and we need to find ways to make up the difference. At the show committee meeting we decided that we need to find a new venue. As nice as the Tukwila Community Center is, it's too expensive. I feel that there MUST be a venue in greater Seattle that is available free or relatively so and we need to find it. That's where YOU, the member, comes in. Maybe you belong to another society or club and they have a hall we could use. Or maybe your child's school or the church you belong to. Maybe the place you work. I would like to see more involvement in our society. One way is through committees and one of those committees could be one that finds venues for sales and shows. Another committees I want is an advertising committee. Kathy Murray has done a fine job with this, but she could use some help. I feel that with a committee we could get better coverage. There are only 6-8 people in the society trying to find a new place and we are running out of ideas‹we need your help! Involvement is what makes a society run, and the more involved you are the more fun it is for everyone. And isn't that what this is all about‹having fun? Our next money maker will be the Northwest Flower & Garden Show in Feburary. This year we are going to put in a display and have a sales area. As before, in order to sell plants you have to put at least one plant in the display and volunteer at least three hours of time or make a food item for the volunteers. Fall is now upon us and it's time to bring in all your delicate little darlings from the outside and prepare for a winter of blooms. What better way to show off your summer of hard work but to fill the plant table at the meetings with your treasures? Another way is to lend plants to George Grantham to be used in displays at other orchid society's upcoming shows. Who knows you may even win a ribbon or trophy. See you all at the next meeting. Jamie
Notman WEB SITE OF THE MONTH Calwest Orchid Supplies This month I'm pointing your browser to a site that offers many orchid related supplies. I've bought most of my materials from them and they've always come through with prompt service and great prices. You can order items on a Monday and often receive them by Thursday. They still sell New Zealand sphagnum moss which I believe is the caviar of moss for phalaenopsis. I also like their clear plastic pots with extra drainage slots. Cal-West also will send you a newsletter with special sales and other interesting information. — Darrow Chan September
2002 Web Site of the Month: Orchid
Growers Rating System NWOS FALL SHOW A SUCCESS It is finally over--almost. The Fall Orchid Show and Sale that was held in the Tukwila Community Center was a success. We didn't make a million, but I think we made a bunch more than last year. The totals are not all in, because we still have a few loose ends and bank charges that need to go into the books. But from the preliminary numbers it looks like over $1,000 came back to our coffers. I want to thank so many people for all the work that was volunteered. Our own Show Committee did a great job. Everyone came together with his or her assignments and it showed. A special thanks goes out to all of our society members who supported the show in a lot of ways. The food was fabulous. The set-up and take down was quick. And clean-up at the end was very thorough. The Tukwila Community Center commented favorably on our efforts, and we got the entire deposit back from them. It was so much fun, and I thank you all. The committee had a wrap-up meeting, and many things were discussed. We will be working on finding more cost-effective venues, and different vendors. We would like your help with some ideas. If you know of a great place that would let us have a sale and show, please let us know. We would need a whole weekend, and be able to leave it up overnight. Many of you asked me if I invited certain vendors, or why this vendor or that one was not at our sale. I wanted to tell you that I invited every vendor that I was asked to invite, as well as all the names on the list from last year. No Hawaiian or foreign vendors were asked to make such a long trip for a small return. Some others had called me after seeing the ad in the AOS Bulletin, but after hearing how much the highest paid vendor got last year, it was not worth their energy to come out. We still have a very small sale, and we won't be able to attract vendors who have to ship their plants, pay for lodging, and take four days away from home. But, hopefully very soon, we will. If there are vendors you are passionate about, that would want to come to our sales, please fill out the form at the meeting. I need addresses as well as names. The next invitation, for the Spring Sale (no date or venue as yet) will go out sometime in January. The next thing on the committee's list is the Northwest Flower and Garden Show in February. We will be planning the layout of the booth, and the volunteer needs. I will get back to you as things progress. In the meantime, if anyone wants to join the committee and help with the plans for our shows and sales, let me know. We meet at my house in North Seattle about every month or so. Some months are slower than others, so we can do e-mail meetings. It is a fun group. — Robin Kemph, Show Chair REVISED PESTS AND DISEASES AVAILABLE TO MEMBERS AT REDUCED PRICE
Members who don't own the prior version of the book (revised last in 1995) should add this book to their orchid library collection. There are individual chapters on physiological disorders, biological control of insects and mites, pesticides, orchid pests, bacterial and fungal diseases, viruses and their control, a glossary, and an extensive section on resources for identifying orchid ailments. New to this edition is a one-page addendum that describes the orchid blossom midge, a critter that primarily affects unopened dendrobium buds and for which control tactics are still being investigated. All chapters are comprehensive and well illustrated. The new edition has 124 pages compared with 118 in the prior version. The resource section is the only section that has been greatly changed. Previously the book listed one resource for identifying plant problems in Washington State--a WSU research facility in Prosser. The new edition lists two local resources‹the Prosser research station and WSU's Research and Extension Center in Puyallup. In general, resources are listed by state with addresses, phone and fax numbers and e-mail addresses. If you have the 1995 version of this book, should you replace your copy with the new one? I'd say, do so only if your old copy is falling apart. By and large the two editions are identical. All photos in the 1995 edition are republished in the 2002 edition. As would be expected, there have been some revisions to the list of products registered for use on orchids (page 36 in the 1995 edition)--several products were deleted and a few were added. The list of fungicides to control bacterial problems is identical in both editions. Presumably the new book will be added to the NWOS library and I suggest you check out the new version, read the section on the orchid blossom midge, and copy the changes into the list of insecticides. ‹ Kathy Murray MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR BLOOMS To maintain orchids in bloom the plants must not be allowed to completely dry out, nor should they be kept constantly wet. The best method is to water plants thoroughly with good quality water until wet, then allow to almost dry out before watering again. Misting the roots with good water can also help to keep the plant turgid (firm-leafed). Flowering plants or plants in bud should not be placed near fruit, which give off gases as they ripen, or in the direct path of heating or air conditioning vents. These can cause bud drop or flowers to fade faster. OTHER NEWS Got a suggestion for a speaker or program? The fall schedule is currently open and first vice president Jerry Hoffmeister is interested in knowing what you would like to hear about at upcoming meetings. E-mail at jerry@hoffmeisters.com or call him (206-932-9912) with your suggestions. 2003 AOS Calendar Discover the "Wow!" factor in the world of orchids with this glorious calendar that makes a great gift for friends--and for yourself. The calendar takes a look at 12 orchids whose special qualities seduce their admirers. Cultural hints for growing each plant picutured are provided. 12 color photographs. 11x22 when open. Price: $10.95 at the Show; $10 for NWOS members who purchase at the monthly meeting. UPCOMING EVENTS OCT.
12-13, 2002 NOV.
2-3, 2002
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The
much-anticipated revision of the American Orchid Society¹s reference book,
Orchid Pests and Diseases, is finally out and may be purchased by NWOS
members at meetings for $10 including tax (the AOS suggested retail price
is $12.95).